Three weeks on New Zealand (2019)
I apologize in advance for a length of this article, but there is really a lot to write about. When I return in my mind back to our journey over New Zealand I can immediately recall a tremendous amount of adventures and I feel an urgent need to share them. Not because I want to brag, but I honestly wish to everyone the opportunity to experience what we did, during those great three weeks. We had a pleasure to visit unbelievable beautiful country and I doubt that my amateur writing will serve it justice. Nevertheless, I want to try.
- Introduction
- Arrival
- Bay of Plenty
- Hobitton
- NP Coromandel
- NP Tongariro
- Hobitton
- Greymouth
- NP Arthur´s Pass
- NP Westland
- Queenstown
- Milforn Sound
- Summary
Introduction
In the beginning I should mention that I am a big fan of The Lord of the Rings. Since I´ve been ten years old I´ve been swallowing all books, loved the whole Universum and when Peter Jackson transferred the Tolkien´s world to the silver screen, I understandably fell in love with it as well. Even nowadays we hold a tradition with Nina to watch all movies at least once a year and by that return to the Middle-earth. It was these very movies which originally raised our interest in New Zealand and if you saw them, I surely don´t need to describe how remarkable and lovely locations were used for shooting. However, we always thought that (as in many movies) the overall effect was achieved mainly with using of CGI. We grew our desire to visit the islands and see it with our own eyes for many years. Eventually it was decided, that if we don´t go now we probably won´t ever go and despite all obstacles (work, price, distance) we agreed on a date and in the mid of January left the frozen heart of Europe, facing our biggest adventure so far.
Obviously, before starting exploring this magical land, we had to get there and there is not many places more distant from our tiny European country. It is more or less even whether you are flying over Asia or America and the duration of the flight directly relies on how much are you willing to invest in the plane tickets. We were aware of the fact that this is probably our only opportunity to visit New Zealand and so we didn´t want to waste our days off by wandering on airports and waiting for a transfer. That is why we decided for the shortest possible flight with Emirates and even that was long enough.
At first 6 hours to Dubai, where we were, after two hours of waiting, boarded to another, twelve hour flight to Auckland with short a stop on Bali. In total something around 26 hours without trips to and from airport. Nothing nice, especially for somebody like me with my 193 cm. Fortunately Emirates provide quite spacious seats and if you make some friends among flight attendants, your flight will be made more pleasant by continuous provision of whiskey. What stacked in my mind was how huge Australia is and how many long hours we spent flying over this red and dry wasteland. But perhaps it was caused by the fact that by that time I was already getting sober, because our arrival was approaching and I had in front of me three hours of driving to our first accommodation.
Arrival
In the early morning we finally landed and to our relief, our bags followed us. Surely you can imagine our weariness after such a long flight. That´s why we weren´t so thrilled from the upcoming biological check. If you haven´t heard of it, it is a standard procedure, which prevents the entering of invasive organisms into the area of New Zealand. Whether it is insect, molds, plants or foods, nothing can go in. During the check you are told by the inspectors to completely unpack your luggage, so they can make sure that nothing you carry can compromise their fragile balance of nature. The special care is dedicated to the tents, which you need to unpack and dump, and also to boot, so make sure there are no remains of your homeland on its soles. It might seem exaggerated, but locals have a very grim experience with import of the foreign species. However, looking back now after seeing what are they protecting, I have to admit that it is worth the effort. Only after those never-ending hours in plane, it won´t make you exactly happy.
There was no time for the rest because there were still 200 km and three hour drive between us and our first pit stop in Tauranga on the east coast. Despite the weariness (and in my case a mild hangover) we felt full of energy. After all, we were in New Zealand. We really finally stood there and regardless of our position on imaginary globe, we didn´t fall down. The whole reality of where we are and what awaits us was like a drug to us. In front of the airport we were picked by arranged transport from Apex car rental, where we took over our car for next three weeks. Toyota Rav4 with 4 wheel drive was supposed to be a guarantee that we will be able to climb even those steepest slopes. Only the steering wheel was on the wrong side. Luckily, thanks to automatic transmission I could pay the full attention to steering and while thoroughly coached by my wife, I managed to keep us more or less on the left side of the road. So we set out to meet the Middle-earth, fascinated by for us unusual landscape full of grassy hills and valleys filled with sheep. With only one short stop for breakfast and our first coffee we arrived at lunchtime to Papamoa.
Bay of Plenty
Papamoa is in fact a coastal neighborhood of Tauranga, the largest town in the Bay of Plenty area with 140 thousand inhabitants. The main attraction is definitely a beautiful beach, stretching for 16 kilometres, which is a destination of many people from Auckland, who want to leave the city for the weekend. We unpacked our bags in small B&B 200 meters from the beach and proclaimed the rest of the day to be a recovery time, in order to gain some strength for upcoming journeys. After accommodating we drove our car to a promenade under Mount Maunganui, towering over the cost to 230m height. Leaving the cold winter Europe behind us, we found ourselves in paradise. Splendid weather with 25 degrees, warm sea and Christmas trees everywhere. Unusual sight for us in such environment. Ignoring the fatigue we decided to climb the hill to enjoy the first of many views to come. We were accompanied by many others backpackers and athletes of mostly Maori appearance, running up and down, embarrassing me and my questionable physical condition. The view over the Bay was beautiful, although it faded when compared with later discoveries. After returning we treated ourselves with a romantic walk on the beach, stepping on millions of tiny jellyfish, scattered over the sand and invoking the feeling of walking on gummy bears.
Hobbiton
On the following day, after a sleep which could be described as coma, we woke up to a day which I was waiting for since I was fourteen. In front of us was the visit of Hobbiton. A location which served as a shooting set for Lord of the Rings and without a doubt one of the most famous places in New Zealand. Our landlord in Papamoa, who otherwise spends his day sunbathing and surfing with his dog, prepared a kingly breakfast for us and supplied us with tips for our three days stay at the Bay of Plenty. After that we set out to 70 km long drive and at its end the fulfilment of my childhood dream.
After arrival and parking by the info-center, we had approximately one hour to beginning of our tour. It works in a way that groups of ca 15 people are gradually taken by buses to the sets, which are few kilometers away. These buses leave each 20 minutes and are completely filled for a whole day. It might therefore seem that you will be swimming in crowds of other tourists, but it is not true at all. The whole process is from a logistics point of view so tuned, that the groups with their guide find their way through the Hobbiton in a way, which gives you an illusion that you are there almost alone.
The whole complex is located on the private sheep farm, belonging to the local, now already very rich farmer. It looks exactly how you perhaps know it from the movies. It´s incredible that the filmmakers managed to find a location, which is so alike to its book description, with only minor adjustments of a landscape. You can´t see a single road or power line and you really feel like in the fantasy land. When we were passing by the Bag End, I suddenly became a little boy again and I was imagining all those characters and actors, who stood here before me. We spent following three hours like this, coursing around the Hobbiton and entertained by an interesting commentary, describing the stories from building, shooting and Tolkien trivia. One of those stood out to me and is worth to mention. Director Peter Jackson found a local sheep not enough fluffy and so, despite of being on the sheep farm, he got imported twenty thousand sheep from Australia, which apparently had a sufficient level of fluffiness.
His perfectionism obviously paid off. In the end, we all gathered at the Inn of the Prancing Pony, enjoying a hobbit beer. When the bus was carrying us back to the info center, I was close to crying. I don´t know if it was caused by emotions of the past experience, or the fact that we are leaving. Maybe a combination of both, as well as the reality, that the dream I had in my head for so many years is suddenly gone. Fulfilled, but gone nevertheless. Luckily New Zealand healed me quite quickly from any kind of melancholy. I will always remember the Hobbiton and to be sure of it, before leaving I bought a lasting memento in the form of a doormat with rune writing: “Not all those who wander are lost”, which to this day welcomes me every time I come home.
We still had a few hours of daylight left and although we knew, that previous experience will not be so easily beaten, we did not want to be idle. So we set off to the nearby town of Rotorua, to enjoy a little nature during a hike around the Blue Lake. Even our minds were still preoccupied by hobbits, we were still fascinated by our surroundings, while walking the trail. Especially by the forest, which we originally thought to be made of palms, but as a matter of the fact it was ferns. New Zealand is truly a paradise of these plants and the All Blacks logo was not chosen by accident. Many of the ferns were higher than some trees.
NP Coromandel
The next day was fully dedicated to visiting of the Coromandel National Park. As we were slowly recovering from the jet lag and getting used to summer January temperatures, we dared to journey 150 km north, to this forest-covered and beach-surrounded peninsula. It was a long drive, but as already mentioned, driving over New Zealand is a pleasure. I have never seen so many beautiful views and valleys. We strategically skipped the visit of the probably most famous place in the park – Cathedral Cove. This rock arch on the coast looks great on the photos, but we were discouraged by the density of tourists in its proximity. Instead, we ventured to the north of the peninsula to climb on Tokatea Lookout. Since we had to drive last few kilometers on an unpaved road and steep serpentine, we really appreciated our decision of renting a 4WD. The hike itself at the end is not that difficult. You just need to pay an attention to your steps, because the hill is (as the rest of the park) full of abandoned gold mines, into which you don´t want to fall. At the summit you will be rewarder with a view to the whole Coromandel, and you will most likely be able to enjoy it alone, not disturbed by other people.
Another of our stops was the New Chum Beach. Mind you that when I´m talking about stops, I usually mean some major target of our journeys, because beside that we were stopping all the time, whenever we were astonished by some incredible view. Eventually we managed to find our way to a coastal town of Whangapoua, where we left our car and on foot set off to the New Chum, three kilometers away. But even the “regular” beach in Whangapoua was stunning. 200 meters broad and kilometers long strip of golden sand, where you could lay down, not having another person closer than hundred meters. In this I´ve always seen one of the main assets of New Zealand. The country has a similar size like for example Italy. But while there is over 60 million of people living in Italy, there is only four and half million of them in the Zealand. And from that amount, million and a half is concentrated in the capital Auckland. The result of this fact is (from a European point of view) unusually low population density, hand in hand with almost untouched nature. Even on our beach I haven´t found a single piece of garbage, single cigarette butt. Simply awesome. The New Chum Beach, where we eventually arrived with the foolish hope of seeing a whales was even more beautiful for its location between a steep cliffs. No whales, though.
On our lovely way back alongside the east coast, we stopped in the Whenuakite Kiwi Zone. We haven´t seen kiwi, but enjoyed a nice view, stretched our legs and learned, that importing stoats to an island inhabited by non-flying birds is not as good idea, as English thought back in the days. Since then the kiwi population has decreased by 95%. Stoats were brought here to fight against overpopulated rabbits, which were also imported. When you think about it, you start to understand that strict check after arrival.
A late lunch followed in the town of Whangamata. We invaded a local sport pub to score some burgers and onion rings and if we weren´t sure until that point, which sport is the number one in Zealand, we learned that here for sure. Rugby was surrounding us all around. Posters with signatures, trophies, TV games and locals discussing almost exclusively that. The pub was not exactly a tourist place and after entering we were measured by several raised eyebrows. But after I recalled the names of some famous players and mention them during my talk with the waitress, I suddenly became a very popular person. After refreshing and replenishing our strengths we went to meet a last item on our daily agenda, the Wharekirauponga track. This ten kilometer hike through the forest full of gold mines was in the end more than we could handle. Beside the fact that we were running out of stamina, we were more importantly running out of water and daylight. So we were forced to give up and return to our car, severely dehydrated, and to try to find the nearest open shop. After mentionable effort we managed to do that, potential death was adverted and we could head home to Papamoa, awaiting our last night at the Bay of Plenty.
NP Tongariro
On the next morning we bid our farewell to our bohemian landlord, said goodbye to the ocean and set off 200 kilometers south to the town Turangi, at the foot of National Part Tongariro, which was supposed to be our home for three following nights. But before that we made a stop in the remarkable geothermal park Wai-O-Tapu. This place which name in Maori means Sacred Waters is a unique area full of geysers and volcanic lakes filled with boiling mud and acids. You can see here red, blue and reflex-green ponds and the whole park smells like rotten eggs. Once you get used to the scent, you can spend here two to three hours, admiring a landscape which reminds a different planet.
Another step on our way was the city Taupo, but before that we had to see the famous Huka Falls. Massive rapids and waterfalls which arise when the 100 meters wide river is narrowed to a fifteen meter canyon. Nothing to fall in, but definitely something to see. Before entering Taupo we were also charmed by Rangatira lookout, offering the view of enormous lake and mainly, peaks of National Park Tongariro in the distance – The New Zealand Mordor.
After a short stop for food in Taupo we finally found ourselves in Turangi, successfully located our B&B and unpacked our bags in the home of the friendly Maori family, whose father was a size of two well fed Czechs. Immediately after meeting us he wanted to introduce us to his pet dogs. To our horror he brought two Rottweilers, which (in reduced visibility) could be mistaken for horses. For this reason we tried to avoid visiting the garden during our stay. National Park Tongariro, which served as a shooting location for Tolkien´s Mordor can easily occupy you for a week. Unfortunately, we could spend there only two days and the agenda for one of those was already set (more about that later). On the first day we decided for a scenic trip to Tama Lakes. It required first fifty kilometer drive to Whakapapa village, where you can find a great tourist center with a plastic map of the park, which gives you’re an idea about the hell you are about to meet.
Our seventeen kilometer long hike begun with gradual ascent following the trail above the village, while the clouds were gathering above us. Here I must mention that up until this day we haven´t experienced different weather than ultimate summer. Temperatures still around 26 degrees, sunshine and cloudless skies. Simply paradise on Earth, which soothed us to carelessness and we went for our hike very ill-equipped. Already at beginning it started to drizzle and the visibility went quickly down. Despite that, we really enjoyed the first three kilometers along the cliffs with the waterfall at its end. Problems started right after, during our 5 km hike over the open plain without a single tree, which ended with steep climb to the lakes. Ignoring the intensifying rain and wind we managed to beat it and through thick clouds see one lake whole and about a fifth of the second lake for a few seconds. It was majestic view, as I find out later when checking pictures on the internet. Slightly disappointed we had to plod our way back, soaking wet and whipped by the wind, reminding us that the weather in New Zealand hills cannot be taken lightly.
Eventually we managed to get home, tired, frozen and barely with enough strength left to make ourselves a dinner. But even in such state we begun to look forward to the following day. The forecast looked much better and we planned to hike through the Tongariro Alpine Crossing – often labeled as one of the best hiking trails in the world. Alas, we were punished for our previous failure and Nina spent the whole night coughing and waking up with a fever. We didn´t sleep much and faced a difficult decision. In the end, we didn´t want to risk the deterioration which could affect the rest of our holiday. We still had the whole South Island ahead of us. So Nina stayed at home with our Maori family, pecking antibiotics, which she (as a responsible doctor that she is) brought in our medic kit. Me, despite offering to stay at home with her as a moral support (as a devoted husband that I am), was sent away with the argument that at least one of us must enjoy it and take as many pictures as possible. So it happened that I set out to my first individual pilgrimage.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing is definitely the most famous and probably the most beautiful one day trail in New Zealand. It starts in fact at its end at Ketetahi. You can reach it with a car and after that, the bus which you need to book in advance will take you on the other side of the mountains to Mangatepopo. There you will begin the twenty kilometer hike back to your car. No turning back and no civilization along the way. Only vast lava fields, sharp rocks and steep steps. I felt like in the fairy tale, walking in the middle of this land which served as a shooting location for Mordor and for the whole time I had this crazy smile on my face, causing other backpackers to keep their distance from me. In the name of fulfilling my promise I kept the camera rolling. The peak of my excitement came after climbing on top of the Devil’s Staircase, when I suddenly saw the massive of the Ngauruhoe volcano – for LOTR geeks like me known as The Orodruina, or Mount Doom.
At that moment my obsession reached its top and I could only imagine how badass the Samwise Gamgee was, being able to carry Frodo to that majestic mountain. Although I desired to follow his steps, I respected the fact that the volcano is sacred in Maori culture and the climbing is not allowed. Anyway, I would probably die of bliss up there, so it was perhaps a good thing that my dilemma was solved by this restriction. I could at least still keep it in my sight and continue through red and black valley without any vegetation to the Red Crater and incredible blue and green volcanic lakes behind it. The scenery was like from a different world and I will never forget it. During the last 9 kilometers downhill you just try to absorb what you just saw, while the view of Taupo Lake is opening in front of you. If I should recommend the three best activities on New Zealand, this would be definitely one of them and its reputation is well deserved. My only regret was that I couldn´t bring my Frodo with me, as she was trying to get better back at home.
Greymouth
On the next day we faced with a long drive to the South Island. The timing couldn´t be better as Nina was thanks to it enabled to use these hours to rest and collect herself. After three hundred kilometers and reaching to Wellington we boarded a ferry and started next, 4 hours long voyage to Picton. Alas, that was not yet our final destination and we still had to pass 350km of abandoned roads of New Zealand´s south. Originally we though that North Island is sparsely populated, but here was really almost nothing. Only rare farmhouses, thousands of sheep and fascinating mountains wherever you looked. After total 14 hours we finally arrived to a coastal town of Greymouth, where we were already awaited by our landlady.
We have chosen the Greymouth as our base for a good reason. The town, located on the Firth of the Grey River, which was in the past several times completely swept to the ocean, lays in the proximity of wonderful Arthur´s Pass National Park. Proximity in this case means 100 km, but given the local landscape, it was basically one neighborhood. Before going, we enjoyed a breakfast with our landlady, vital 70 years old granny, which is running the B&B with her husband in order to make retirement more interesting. She immediately asked us to sign a guestbook and to put a pin on her map, where she collected a places of origin of all her guests. The map looked like a hedgehog, but we were only third visitors from the Czech. After she supplied us with some good travel tips and informed, that breakfast is included in the accommodation, but fried bacon is 5 extra dollars, we finally set out to explore another jewel of New Zealand
NP Arthur´s Pass
The first thing in the national park which got our attention was an abundant occurrence of Kea parrots. These sometimes even half-meter birds, which look like eagles, charmed us at first. Especially because of complete lack of fear of humans. However, after speaking with some locals we started to watch out for them, as we were told that such parrot, beside his standard diet of the larvae and plants, does not despise also other birds, rabbits and even an adult sheep. There are documented cases where Kea attacks a sheep and with its massive beak it starts to rip off the fat from the back. Although sheep usually survives the assault itself, its prospects of happy retirement are not so good. Therefore, we tried not to provoke the birds, or at least don’t show them our fat body parts.
Our initial trek in the Arthur´s Pass was the Bealey Spur. It was a gentle, 12 kilometers long walk with elevation only 800m. Ideal for getting acquainted with the park, which otherwise offers more ambitious climbs. For the most of the hike we could stay hidden in the shadow of the trees and enjoyed a fantastic view of flat valleys, which are each winter filled with water, threatening to sweep the Greymouth again. After the return we had enough time left to visit the Devils Punchbowl waterfall. This 131 meters high, massive stream of water showered us from a distance and left us with a great impression. On our way home, we stopped to get some refreshment in slightly bizarre hotel Stagecoach in Otira, watched from the roof by the dragon Smaug and Gollum and Gandalf protected the entrance to the restaurant, which looked like a junk shop. The cheesecake was excellent, though.
On the following day we faced with our most difficult hike so far. We again drove 100km to the park, next to the waterfall we admired yesterday. This time we turned to the west side of the pass and tilted our heads back to be able to see our destination – the Avalanche Peak. The trek itself is only 5 km long, but on its first two kilometers you need to climb more than 1000m. The path is very demanding and also dangerous for its frequent landslides and avalanches during the winter. We have bravely begun to walk uphill, while our walk was quickly changed to climb and then to crawl. Through all the hardships we were continuously rewarded with an awesome view of the whole pass. The massive waterfall we visited yesterday looked like a thin white line and as a cherry top on the summit we could admire the sight to our first glacier. Our joy was diminished a little by the fact that we met more people on the top, than on the whole South Island so far. However, the view was worth it.
We followed the recommendations of our landlady and after returning to Greymouth we did a little detour to visit the Pancake Rocks, 40km north of the town. Despite the small initial disappointment of my wife, caused by finding out that the rocks are not really made of pancakes, we were thrilled with the place. The parking was for free, the entry as well and beside us there were only around five people in the whole coastal park. It felt like having the whole place just for ourselves. As soon as we walked through the vegetation and saw all the limestone rocks, shaped by the tide to fantastic arches, caves and pools, while the whole scenery was crowned by a sunset, we felt almost guilty for being so lucky and having the opportunity to visit something like this. All the rocks were really layered in a way which reminded a chimney of pancakes. We stayed almost until dark, observing the ocean with a hope of seeing dolphins or whales, which occasionally visit here. But, as I have already written in my blog from Madeira, we are usually not so lucky regarding marine fauna and even this time there was no exception. Even so we managed to say goodbye to Greymouth with a style.
NP Westland
Another point of interest on our New Zealand journey was the National park Westland and its mountains, which are the highest not only on the islands, but on the whole Australian continent. We drove 200 km to the Franz Josef Glacier village, located at the foot of the glacier, after which it is named. Calling it village might be a little too generous, though. It is basically a tourist resort, consisting of several hostels, restaurants and companies which mediate various activities at the park. We compromised our standards a little and checked in very low cost hostel, in fact without furniture. After some time we found out anyway, that floor can serve the same purpose as a table or closet.
As soon as we unpacked, we set out few kilometers behind the village to the start of short trek leading to the glacier. The surrounding nature was beautiful, as it usually is in New Zealand and we also enjoyed plenty of waterfalls, which burbled on the both sides of the valley. Despite all of that we were slowly starting to feel a little sad, as we were passing by posts, showing where the glacier was 100 years ago, 50 years ago and so on. When we got to the point where the glacier supposedly was five years ago and we still weren´t able to see it, it was rather depressing. Eventually the white and grey massive appeared in front of us, being much less impressive than in our imagination. I am writing these lines with a concern that as my children will one day read it, only the memory of the glacier will be left.
The weather on the following day woke us up with persistent rain. However, we didn´t allow it to dampen our spirit and started our trek to Alex Knob. This 18km hike, which includes a climb to the hills around the glacier valley was supposed to take seven hours, but fate ruled otherwise. The path was not as steep as on Avalanche Peak, but the total elevation was even a little higher. It wouldn´t be a problem on its own, as the expected views to glaciers would surely compensate any possible suffering. But the weather was getting worse instead of better and only the dense vegetation around us saved us from complete soaking. After climbing to the top the rain stopped, but the fog and clouds were so thick, that the only view we could admire was onto each other. That was surely a better deal for me than for Nina, but it was also my last joy, as the unwelcoming surrounding conditions brought to life my old ankle injury and I suddenly had a problem only to stand on it. At that point the rain started again and we faced to 9km descent back. Words cannot describe the suffering and my frustration in the next four hours, when I was trying to step by step navigate over slippery rocks, trying not to kill myself or my significant other. Nina, despite supporting me morally, would hardly be able to support my 100kg in case of total failure. I will not exaggerate by saying that it was one of the worst experience of my life.
Through blood, sweat and almost even tears I managed to carry myself back to the hostel. At that moment we were already soaking wet and Nina, whose vocabulary I have enriched with several new expressions, suggested to reward ourselves with a super unhealthy burger from local stall. The food turned out to be one of the best I ever had and also had a beneficial regenerative effect to my bruised foot. We spent few rainy hours like this, licking wounds in our hostel den and after the sunset, when rain changed to a mere drizzle, we set out to a short Terrace walk, right behind our accommodation. We purposely waited for the dark, because this walk is known for its glowing worms. As soon as we ventured to the depth of the forest and turned off our lights, our eyes got used to the darkness and we were suddenly surrounded by dozens of little blue lights, which quickly become a hundreds. It was like watching a night sky, while having it within reach of hand.
We were truly excited until a comical scene took place after the group of Chinese tourists with a guide appeared. Each of them had a flashlight, which was apparently powered by a nuclear reactor and could easily serve to a landing plane. In the inevitable glare the surrounding magical scenery of course faded. Despite that, the guide pompously turned one leaf upside down, pointed his finger to one tiny worm and informed the group that the worm glows. The series of admirable sighs followed, together with a dose of camera flashes, which I doubt that leaf survived, not mention the poor worm. After the group left, we stood for a while, squinting and trying to regenerate our retina. The magic was gone, though, and we returned back to dry and warm.
The weather did not improve even on the next day, which turned out to be a problem, because for that day we had a booking for a helicopter flight to the Fox Glacier. It was supposed to be one of the highlights of our trip and we excitedly drove to a village a few kilometers away, from where the flights start. There we were told that high clouds and wind are not the ideal condition for a flight, with what even an aviation layman as I had to agree. The whole event was therefore postponed with hope for later improvement and we realized our backup plan and visited the Matheson Lake for a romantic walk. This three kilometers loop around a lake which is also called a Mirror Lake is crowned with one of the most famous view on New Zealand. In the ideal conditions is the surface of the water almost still and in it you can see a clear reflection of the Southern Alps and mainly two mountains. Mount Tasman, which is the second highest peak of the country and more importantly Mount Cook, which is even higher and served to Sir Edmund Hillary as a training platform for his first climb to Mt. Everest. Alas, as I´ve mentioned the weather was not ideal and the only reflection we saw belonged to the clouds.
After returning to Fox Glacier village and enjoying an excellent ribs in local bar we were reached by a helicopter company, telling us that despite the weather is improving, the flights are cancelled and our money returned. Our disappointment was tangible, although for Nina it was half to half with a relief, as the first helicopter ride is understandably a stressful event. Our mood was improved after visiting the lake again, this time with less clouds and more mountains. Even though we were able to see only the summits, I have to admit that in combination with the lake it is a view worth seeing. We ended our stay in Franz Josef Glacier with an evening visit of local hot pools. Three pools with temperature 38, 40 and 42 degrees and almost no other visitors finished the healing process of my ankle and we slowly started to get ready for a last stage of our journey.
The longest stage of our trip awaited us. 350km to Queenstown, the unofficial capital of the adrenaline sports. Coincidentally, our path led us again through the Fox Glacier and we couldn´t resist to stop and with foolish hope asked once more for the possibility of flight. The Maori deities smiled at us that day and we were signed to a flight leaving in two hours. Therefore, we enjoyed a second breakfast and tilted our heads to snow-white peaks of the Alps, this time knowing that soon we will be walking over them. After we were weighted and thoroughly instructed (how to approach the helicopter, how to get out, do not raise hands, etc.) van transported us to the heliport as our ride just flew in. The nervousness was quickly replaced by excitement, we were seated together with one other pair, headphones on our heads and the lift off has begun. The flight itself was amazing experience itself and I was really surprised by the comfort. No turbulences, shocks and dips. We smoothed our way to the glacier valley while picking up the altitude.
The Fox Glacier is 13km long mass of ice, from which you can see only a fragment when looking from the ground. We were treated with an amazing view of white tongue, rolling forward while being torn up to smaller fragments the size of multi-storey buildings. Occasionally we could see the groups of brave hikers, as their guide was trying to find a way through this icy maze. Nothing easy, considering that glacier moves up to eight meters each summer day. The paths are being lost, collapsed and new ones are made. We landed on a plateau below the summit of Mt. Cook, where we could walk around and admire this fantastic scenery of permanent ice, mountains and view of the sea. Experience of a lifetime.
Queenstown
After trouble-free flight back to Fox Glacier Village we got into the car and still full of impressions started another five hour drive to our last pit stop in Queenstown. We stretched the drive a little by stopping near Lake Moeraki to have a short hike to the Monro Beach on the coast, where with luck you can see wild penguins. It was only two kilometers, so we walked casually without any equipment, which made our hike much easier. But then, as the only people on the beach we became a target of a mosquito swarm of gigantic proportions. The only way to avoid being bitten to death was to move constantly, and very rapidly. Those few penguins who occupied the beach must have thought that we are unsuccessfully trying to perform Haka. Needless to say it was very difficult to document the beach properly, while dancing like maniacs. Despite all of that, we managed to take few pictures and then cowardly flee back to the bushes.
I observed, that more southern on New Zealand you are, the more beautiful it seems. Not that we didn´t like the north as well. Opposite of that. After our arrival we were thrilled by it. However, as we continuously traveled along the Southern Alps to cooler areas, we slowly started to feel an envy that some country has so much beauty just for itself. In front of us begun to spread out huge lakes, lined with beautiful green hills and hundreds of uninhabited kilometers, which underlined the whole, untouched picture. Almost whole our ride to Queenstown we wondered, what other view behind the turn or behind the horizon will take our breath away again. The highlight came at the end, when we first saw the city in the valley, on the shore of Lake Wakatipu and in the background the astonishing ridge of Remarkables Mountains. Its name doesn´t serve it justice.
B&B in Queenstown was our last and also definitely the best accommodation for following six nights. Each morning we could enjoy an excellent breakfast in front of the French windows with fantastic view of the lake and the mountains behind it. We purposely dedicated the most time to this most southern part of the island, but there was so much to see that we could only enjoy the fraction of it anyway. On the first day we decided to challenge ourselves a little and visit Ben Lomond. Mountain right above the city, which requires 1.322m of elevation, if you want to climb it. In case of sudden laziness you can decrease this climb by 300m, using the cableway. However, in the name of burning the humongous breakfast, we hiked the whole way. Starting on the Tiki Trail in the shadow of trees full of rope trails.
After climbing to the top end of the cableway we saw a huge tourist center. Hundreds of people enjoying the views, extreme sport enthusiasts who are starting their hang-gliders, mountain bikers or racers on the local go-cart circuit. We were trying to avoid this big chaos, so we only use the restaurant to drain and replenish our liquids before another climb. As soon as we left, the crowds quickly disappeared and were replaced by sporadic groups of hikers like us. After an hour of gentle incline we left the tree line behind us and could clearly see Ben Lomond. Magnificent view, but also a painful reminder what expects us.
The beautiful day was promising a great view, but the lack of shadows took its toll and as we were forced to manage our water supply carefully, we had to make a lot of breaks. The sceneries were breathtaking and after a strenuous final climb to the top we were rewarded with probably the greatest outlook so far. There is no point describing it, I let my shots tell you the story. Besides vital 70 year old lady who climbed behind us and was rewarded with an applause of all people on the summit, we were also accompanied by a flock of Kea parrots. These cheeky birds were sneaking around backpacks and stealing unsecured snacks. I won´t lie by saying that we didn´t want to leave the place at all. Not because of the long way back, but abandoning such a lovely place was a pity. Alas, you can´t stop time and almost in the dark we returned back to our car, tired but extremely satisfied.
On the following day we were about to undergo another climb, but before that also 100km drive north to the lakes Wanaka and Hawea. Although we passed them on our way to Queenstown, their surrounding were so lovely, that we decided for another, more detailed visit. Our attention was captured by the Isthmus Peak, mountain standing right amid the lakes and promising another wonderful view. Between it and us was only 1.100m of elevation on eight kilometers hike. It ought to be mentioned that after previous day our legs were rather heavy. The weariness after exhausting two weeks was starting to show. At this point we climbed almost the height of Mount Everest and walked over 250km. But knowing that this will be our last climb we gathered all remaining strengths and begun to push upwards, through ubiquitous herds of sheep.
Fortunately, the sights around us made us stop all the time, admire them and replenish our stamina at the same time. Sheep were fleeing in front of us and stayed indifferent to my attempts to feed them. Either they didn´t like me, or the carrots. I leaned toward the carrots. The top of the mountain stood above us and to our pleasure was closing in satisfying pace. The greater was our despair when we discovered, that in fact it was not the top at all. After passing the horizon we saw, that our true destination is several kilometers further, but mainly many meters higher. Up until this day my heart aches, when remembering the degree of my frustration at the time. Despite that, we managed after another hour reach the top and enjoy a beautiful 360° view of Otago area, with lakes on both sides.
We decided to dedicate the next day to the rest. No more exhausting hiking over mountains and instead of it we visited the center of Queenstown. On one hand to explore this strange city and on the other to buy enough gifts to satisfy all our kin. Unfortunately, we were in the morning surprised by harsh weather and in order to avoid rain we took a shelter in local kiwi sanctuary. As I´ve mentioned before, these odd birds are having a little bit of a hard time on the islands and the local community is doing all it can to help them survive and thrive again. Part of this activity is also a local park, where you can, besides seeing some New Zealand endemics, also observe these egg-shaped creatures. Probably you won´t be able to experience it elsewhere in the wild. Not only for their timidity, but mostly because they are nocturnal. In the dome, where artificial light helps to turn around a day-night cycle, you can overcome this obstacle and after getting used to the dark you will see kiwis running around, sticking their long beak underground to hunt larvae. By the way, despite their appearance kiwis have the shortest beak of all birds. It´s because the length is officially measured from the nostrils and kiwi has them on the bottom end of its beak. See, you can even learn something from my blog. I personally was mainly surprised by their size. I expected a chicken and got a decent sized turkey.
In a few hours the weather improved and we could fully enjoy all what Queenstown has to offer. The city has a unique atmosphere. It´s full of young people who spend their days with hiking, various adrenaline sports and on the nights they indulge in wild parties. During the summer it gets really crowded. The city and its closest surrounding has normally around 40 thousand inhabitants, but visitors can ramp up this number up to 130.000. We successfully bought all gifts and tasted a local specialty, our first Pavlova cake. If you enjoy sweets like us, I heartily recommend it. There was still a lot of daylight in front of us, so we listened to an advice of our hotel co-guests and set off to nearby Arrowtown. During our breakfast one older couple couldn´t praise it enough and we were clearly told that we just cannot miss it.
We drove, full of expectations, to Arrowtown, twenty kilometers away. This historic settlement was founded in the mid of the nineteenth century as a center of local gold mining industry. Today it attract tourists mainly with its old houses, which kept their appearance similar to the Wild West and with the remains of the old Chinese settlement. The Chinese part was quite interesting, but the whole town loses a lot of its magic by modern roads and cars between old houses. We would probably appreciate it more without it. The peak of our visit was a local sweet-shop Patagonia, where we ate one of the best cakes of our lives and decided (independently) to visit a real Patagonia one day. We ended this whole relaxing day with a night car trip above the city. Not to admire the total darkness around us, but to see a clear night sky without any light pollution. I have never seen so many stars in my life before and besides famous Southern Cross, which you can also see on the New Zealand´s flag, I was especially stunned by Orion constellation. We can see it from home as well, yes, but this was a first time we could see upside down. An awesome reminder of how far from home we were.
Milford Sound
The last big trip of our holiday was in front of us and it was supposed to be the true highlight. Visit of Fjordland National Park and the cruise through the Milford Sound, which is often described as the eighth wonder of the world. The problem we faced was, that although the Sound is only 60km away from the Queenstown, the car drive requires 300km. You can drive through the Alps, so you have to drive around them. Of course, there is nothing bad on small detour, especially through such lovely landscape, and having more time we would go for it. However, we didn´t want to spend 8 hours of such a nice day by driving and decided to fly over the mountains. The luck we didn´t have on the glaciers came back to us here. Normally there is almost two thirds of all flights cancelled due to unpredictable weather, but we were told that the weather today is the best in the last few months. After booking, we were taken to the airport, where we and four other adventurers boarded a small propeller plane and took off for a trip of a lifetime.
I will remember the thirty minute flight as long as I live. The sight of snowy peaks, glaciers, mountain lakes which cannot be seen from elsewhere and absolutely untouched nature. If you put a gun to my head and forced me to choose the best experience, this would be it. Our journey didn´t end with crossing the mountains, but went on above the surface of 15km long fjord all the way to the sea, where we turned around and aimed back to the ferry terminal and the runway. Like this we could look over the whole enchanting place, which we were about to sail through in a few minutes.
The beauty of the fjord, viewing it from the surface, didn´t lag behind the view from the plane. On the contrary, the colossal cliffs rising from the water to the heights on the both sides stood out even more. On their slopes, the great waterfalls were raining onto us, sometimes from such distance, that the water changed to a mist before even reaching the bottom of the fjord. When we found a waterfall strong enough, the captain decided to wash his boat and took us right under it. Not entirely, of course, but even from a several meter distance we got completely soaked and many of the passengers ran away to the safety of the ship cabin. Again, we hoped to see a whale. They sometimes visit the ford together with their babies. No wonder, because the cliffs continue on under water to the same distance as above it and the fjord is in some places around 300m deep.
Alas, our curse prevailed and sight of these majestic creatures was denied to us. Instead of being sad we found joy by looking at a herd of seals, sunbathing on a huge stone under the cliffs. Our sail to an open sea and back took over two hours and there was still something to admire. Although it was still only rocks and waterfalls, we couldn´t get enough of it. After anchoring we had the pleasure to experience another fascinating flight back to Queenstown, where in the evening we almost weren´t able to talk, still trying to absorb all the feeling from this unique day.
It seemed surreal, but another morning we woke up to our last day in New Zealand. Truthfully, on most of our long holidays we usually look forward to being home again a little. However, we really didn´t want to leave this time. Luckily, we still had one more thing in front of us, so we didn´t have to think about returning to reality just yet. I would like to initiate the whole topic by introducing Mr. A.J. Hackett. This, in New Zealand born lunatic during his travels around South Pacific met a tribe on the island of Vanuatu, which members prove their manhood by jumping from bamboo towers, several meters high, while tied up by their legs to the top. This not so elegant, but impressive sight influenced him so much, that he decided to bring it back to civilization and to commercialize it. In 1986 he imitated this feat by jumping from the Auckland Bridge and phenomena called bungy-jump was born that day. Since then, Queenstown is the home of this sport and Mr. Hackett´s Company still provides this experience to thousands of daredevils, among which I planned to join on this day.
I booked it before even leaving Europe, since the capacities are limited and the timing was not coincidental. The possible technical fault would then at least wouldn´t ruin the whole holiday. Despite being hesitantly supported by my dear wife, my suggestion for jumping together was met with vigorous rejection. I personally was determined, although my inherent fear of heights was consuming me long before the holiday and when imagining standing on the ledge my palms started to sweat. The organizers for a small fee allowed Nina to follow me, to share this lifetime experience.
The whole procedure works in a way that you visit the central in Queenstown in the morning, where you must sign a bunch of documents, confirming that you are healthy and not suffering by any afflictions, like high blood pressure, epilepsy, heart condition, and so on. After that they weight you several times and your weight and jump code are written on your hand with a marker. Then we took a bus, which was basically a re-worked truck, and together with a group of other brave souls were taken to Kawarau Gorge. That is, by the way, an absolutely stunning place with azure river flowing between steep cliffs, through where the Fellowship of the Ring sail to Argonath (google it). At the moment, we were mainly interested in hanged bridge, 43 meters above the river, where I was about perform my jump in several minutes. My nerves were working as the time flew, and suddenly I was up. First to weight again and then followed up a question: Wet or dry? By that was meant, whether I wish to set up the rope in a way, that my head will reach the water. I said why the hell not and my rope was loosed by a few centimeters.
I have to highlight the professionalism of local staff, which makes your dilemma much easier. With continuous communication, asking where are you from, how do you like Queenstown and so on they don´t let you think about the stupid thing you are about to do. Before you know it, you are standing above the river and the guy is showing you where the cameras are, where you can wave to and suddenly he shouts 3…2…1…Bungy, and you just jump. Or fall to be precise. Unfortunately, inexperienced as I was, was furiously waving my arms during the fall (probably trying to fly) and by that slowed my fall so much, that water splash didn´t happen. Despite that, my adrenaline rush was so severe, that after being down, pulled into a boat and returned to a bank, I ran those 40 meters back up to Nina within perhaps ten seconds, just to tell her how awesome it was.
That all was merely a training for the upcoming event, because in fact I booked a two jumps on that day. So we boarded a bus again and were taken to the Nevis Platform. There I realized, how small my previous challenge was, when seeing the steel ropes pulled above the huge ridge and a small hanged cabin, where we were about to go. The 134m height makes this jump the third highest in the world and you will be painfully aware of that, once reaching the cabin and finding out that the floor is partially made of glass. Luckily, this time I already knew a little bit what to expect and was able to fully enjoy the 8 seconds of free fall. Even more, I was able to record it decently. If you will have the opportunity to do it someday, don´t hesitate. It is a fantastic experience and I have chills just writing about it.
Summary
Eventually we came to the end of our holiday and my article as well. In front of us were only Tour de Airports, flights to Auckland, Bali, Dubai and Prague. Thank God for a continuous supply of alcohol in the plane and comfort in knowing, that we probably never experience a longer flight. Unless, of course, Elon Musk do something really crazy. I would like to sum up our journey somehow, but we experienced so much that I would probably start another new article. I´ll end by saying, that New Zealand is an unbelievably colorful country, where you have the possibility to swim in the sea, visit the glacier, hiked through the rainforest, all in one day. It offers a sight of almost untouched nature, where, after climbing to random hill you can look around and see the same picture, as the first Maori who climbed that hill 700 years ago. No roads, buildings, power lines and other disturbing elements, to which we in Europe are unfortunately already used to. We were absolutely thrilled and fulfilled a several of our dreams. I would like to recommend this trip to anyone, but I am aware that it is not the most accessible location. Despite, I hope that some of you who read all the way here will have the pleasure to visit the Middleearth once. For the rest of you, I hopefully painted a picture good enough, to give you an idea of what lies on the other side of our beautiful planet.
